Living Buenos Aires
The places we genuinely recommend, with walking times from your apartment. For your first morning, a free afternoon or a Sunday with no plans.
From Marais Recoleta
Between Recoleta and Palermo.Around the corner
- Juanita Cafédownstairs
Specialty coffee and fresh pastries. Your Marais breakfast.
View on map - Norteon the same block
A classic porteño bodegón with generous portions, for an easy dinner.
View on map - Subte D · Agüero2 blocks
Ten minutes to the Obelisk.
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A short walk
- El Ateneo Grand Splendid15 min
A 1919 theater turned bookshop. Climb up to the boxes and read for a while on the stage, now a café.
View on map - Cementerio de la Recoleta17 min
Funerary art, Argentine history and Evita's tomb. Go early, in the morning light.
View on map - Biblioteca Nacional17 min
The library Borges once ran. Its esplanade has one of the best views in the neighborhood.
View on map - Parque Las Heras18 min
For a run, some mate, or to see how Buenos Aires spends a Saturday.
View on map - Cumaná18 min
Empanadas, locro stew and northern Argentine cooking, at friendly prices.
View on map - Rodi Bar18 min
A white-tablecloth bodegón with career waiters.
View on map - La Biela21 min
Recoleta's classic café, with bronze statues of Borges and Bioy Casares at one of its tables.
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Half an hour on foot, or a short cab ride
- Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes22 min
The country's most important art collection, with free entry.
View on map - Floralis Genérica25 min
The giant steel flower in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas.
View on map - El Sanjuanino26 min
Traditional empanadas, to eat standing up or take back to your apartment.
View on map - Museo Evita28 min
The story of Eva Perón in a Palermo Chico mansion.
View on map - Jardín Botánico28 min
A green breather in the middle of the city.
View on map - MALBA29 min
Latin American art: Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar, Berni.
View on map - Jardín Japonés33 min
Bridges, koi and quiet.
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On weekends
- Feria de Plaza FranciaSat & Sun
Artisans and stalls next to the Cemetery.
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From Marais Centro
Buenos Aires starts at your door.Around the corner
- Tancat2 min
A Spanish tapas bar, perfect for lunch.
View on map - Palacio Paz3 min
A French-style palace in the heart of the city. Guided tours available.
View on map - Galerías Pacífico5 min
Look up: the dome has murals by Berni and Castagnino.
View on map - Dadá Bistró5 min
A small bar with art on the walls and good food.
View on map - Plaza San Martín · Edificio Kavanagh6 min
Grassy slopes, century-old rubber trees and the Kavanagh behind them, in 1936 the tallest reinforced-concrete building in the world.
View on map - Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento6 min
A hidden gem behind the Kavanagh.
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A short walk
- Teatro Cervantes10 min
The national theater, with a Spanish-style façade worth a photo.
View on map - Teatro Colón11 min
A guided tour by day; opera or ballet by night.
View on map - Florería Atlántico11 min
A bar hidden behind a flower shop, and one of the city's most awarded.
View on map - El Cuartito12 min
Porteño pizza, eaten standing up, since 1934.
View on map - Obelisco · Avenida Corrientes13 min
Theaters, secondhand bookshops and pizza with fainá.
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Half an hour on foot, or 10 minutes by subway
- Café Tortoni20 min
Open since 1858. Order hot chocolate with churros.
View on map - Plaza de Mayo · Casa Rosada21 min
Where it all began.
View on map - Palacio Barolo25 min
A building inspired by Dante's Divine Comedy. Go up to the lighthouse at sunset.
View on map - Puerto Madero26 min
The Puente de la Mujer and a walk along the water.
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On Sunday
- San Telmo40 min
The Defensa Street fair and the San Telmo Market. On foot, or subway and a short cab.
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48 hours in Buenos Aires
Works from either location.
Day one: postcard Buenos Aires
- Morning
- Breakfast, then a walk through Plaza San Martín, past the Kavanagh and along Florida Street to Galerías Pacífico.
- Midday
- Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada. Coffee at the Tortoni.
- Afternoon
- Avenida de Mayo to the Palacio Barolo, for sunset from the lighthouse.
- Evening
- Pizza standing up on Corrientes and a play, or a performance at the Colón.
Day two: the city of the porteños
- Morning
- Recoleta: the Cemetery, Plaza Francia and the Museum of Fine Arts.
- Midday
- Empanadas at El Sanjuanino or Cumaná.
- Afternoon
- El Ateneo Grand Splendid, then on to Palermo: the Japanese Garden or MALBA.
- Evening
- Dinner in your apartment (that's what the kitchen is for) or a neighborhood parrilla.
Here on a Sunday? Swap day one's morning for the San Telmo fair.
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Message us on WhatsAppWalking times are approximate. We recommend checking opening hours before you go.