Living Buenos Aires

The places we genuinely recommend, with walking times from your apartment. For your first morning, a free afternoon or a Sunday with no plans.

From Marais Recoleta

Between Recoleta and Palermo.

Around the corner

  • Juanita Cafédownstairs

    Specialty coffee and fresh pastries. Your Marais breakfast.

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  • Norteon the same block

    A classic porteño bodegón with generous portions, for an easy dinner.

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  • Subte D · Agüero2 blocks

    Ten minutes to the Obelisk.

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A short walk

  • El Ateneo Grand Splendid15 min

    A 1919 theater turned bookshop. Climb up to the boxes and read for a while on the stage, now a café.

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  • Cementerio de la Recoleta17 min

    Funerary art, Argentine history and Evita's tomb. Go early, in the morning light.

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  • Biblioteca Nacional17 min

    The library Borges once ran. Its esplanade has one of the best views in the neighborhood.

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  • Parque Las Heras18 min

    For a run, some mate, or to see how Buenos Aires spends a Saturday.

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  • Cumaná18 min

    Empanadas, locro stew and northern Argentine cooking, at friendly prices.

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  • Rodi Bar18 min

    A white-tablecloth bodegón with career waiters.

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  • La Biela21 min

    Recoleta's classic café, with bronze statues of Borges and Bioy Casares at one of its tables.

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Half an hour on foot, or a short cab ride

  • Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes22 min

    The country's most important art collection, with free entry.

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  • Floralis Genérica25 min

    The giant steel flower in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas.

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  • El Sanjuanino26 min

    Traditional empanadas, to eat standing up or take back to your apartment.

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  • Museo Evita28 min

    The story of Eva Perón in a Palermo Chico mansion.

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  • Jardín Botánico28 min

    A green breather in the middle of the city.

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  • MALBA29 min

    Latin American art: Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar, Berni.

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  • Jardín Japonés33 min

    Bridges, koi and quiet.

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On weekends

  • Feria de Plaza FranciaSat & Sun

    Artisans and stalls next to the Cemetery.

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From Marais Centro

Buenos Aires starts at your door.

Around the corner

  • Tancat2 min

    A Spanish tapas bar, perfect for lunch.

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  • Palacio Paz3 min

    A French-style palace in the heart of the city. Guided tours available.

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  • Galerías Pacífico5 min

    Look up: the dome has murals by Berni and Castagnino.

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  • Dadá Bistró5 min

    A small bar with art on the walls and good food.

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  • Plaza San Martín · Edificio Kavanagh6 min

    Grassy slopes, century-old rubber trees and the Kavanagh behind them, in 1936 the tallest reinforced-concrete building in the world.

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  • Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento6 min

    A hidden gem behind the Kavanagh.

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A short walk

  • Teatro Cervantes10 min

    The national theater, with a Spanish-style façade worth a photo.

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  • Teatro Colón11 min

    A guided tour by day; opera or ballet by night.

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  • Florería Atlántico11 min

    A bar hidden behind a flower shop, and one of the city's most awarded.

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  • El Cuartito12 min

    Porteño pizza, eaten standing up, since 1934.

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  • Obelisco · Avenida Corrientes13 min

    Theaters, secondhand bookshops and pizza with fainá.

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Half an hour on foot, or 10 minutes by subway

  • Café Tortoni20 min

    Open since 1858. Order hot chocolate with churros.

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  • Plaza de Mayo · Casa Rosada21 min

    Where it all began.

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  • Palacio Barolo25 min

    A building inspired by Dante's Divine Comedy. Go up to the lighthouse at sunset.

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  • Puerto Madero26 min

    The Puente de la Mujer and a walk along the water.

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On Sunday

  • San Telmo40 min

    The Defensa Street fair and the San Telmo Market. On foot, or subway and a short cab.

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48 hours in Buenos Aires

Works from either location.

Day one: postcard Buenos Aires

Morning
Breakfast, then a walk through Plaza San Martín, past the Kavanagh and along Florida Street to Galerías Pacífico.
Midday
Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada. Coffee at the Tortoni.
Afternoon
Avenida de Mayo to the Palacio Barolo, for sunset from the lighthouse.
Evening
Pizza standing up on Corrientes and a play, or a performance at the Colón.

Day two: the city of the porteños

Morning
Recoleta: the Cemetery, Plaza Francia and the Museum of Fine Arts.
Midday
Empanadas at El Sanjuanino or Cumaná.
Afternoon
El Ateneo Grand Splendid, then on to Palermo: the Japanese Garden or MALBA.
Evening
Dinner in your apartment (that's what the kitchen is for) or a neighborhood parrilla.

Here on a Sunday? Swap day one's morning for the San Telmo fair.

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Walking times are approximate. We recommend checking opening hours before you go.

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